Topic: Thinking of casting my own bullets

[Norton1]

I began by using a few of Nomad's bullets and then reading my cast bullet manual. For calibers I don't shoot a lot it could be the answer to shortages of the future and of the present. Equipment costs are the hard part but there are a lot of alternatives to using factory items.

Anyone doing any of this? If so what's your experience? Recomendations of items you use or experiences I could avoid??

I've avoided lead bullets like the plaugue due to lead fouling but the mroe I read the more I see how to eliminate lead fouling. So what do you all think??

[fj40mojo]

I've shot thousands of lead cast pistol bullets in .38, .357, 9mm. .45 ACP, and .44 Mag. As long as you don't try to push them as fast as you do jacketed bullets you're fine. When choosing loading data make sure that it is for lead bullets. When I was casting them myself I used linotype lead alloy which has lots of antimony in it and makes for some hard bullets now I just buy lead cuz it's cheaper. I never had a problem with fouling and if you shoot a few jacketed SWC after your done with the lead it will clean most fouling out. I think it is an excellent alternative and may save your ass someday (if TEOTWAWKI comes).

[High Wall]

I cast my own bullets for both pistol and rifle.  It is an enjoyable hobby, and if you have the time to do it, and can scrounge lead, it is like printing money.  I've heard a lot of people say they don't have time to do it, but they seem to have time to surf the net or watch TV.  Just a matter of where your priorities lie.  However, like I mentioned in the swaging thread, if you like to go out and shoot 500+ rounds per range session like some do, it may not be for you unless all you do when not shooting is cast and size bullets.

It doesn't need to cost a lot to get started.  The Lee Production pot is a good value.  I have 2 that are going strong after 30 years.  Lee 2 cavity molds are cheap, but I can't recommend them.  It is possible to get good bullets from them, but they will be frustrating for a beginner.  Plus they are not particularly durable.  Lyman and RCBS molds are a good value.  The Lee press mounted sizer dies are inexpensive and work well.  That is all I use for rifle bullets anymore because it has certain advantages for long bullets.  I have an old Lyman 450 sizer I use for pistol bullets.  You can spend more money for more speed with other sizers. 

You can look for used equipment.  I go to gun shows mainly to look for old bullet molds and scopes and have found many good deals.

Bullet casting is like anything else in shooting.  You can keep it simple, or you can get into it as deep as you want.  And I can't remember the last time one of my cast bullet loads caused barrel or chamber leading.  With a few simple precautions, it is not a concern.

[SNAFU]

You might find these videos of interest.

http://www.ehow.com/video_2358235_cast-vs-jacket-how-own.html

[ballardw]

If you haven't already found this site try http://castboolits.gunloads.com

Even found links to making your own molds.

Propane stove, cast iron pot, source of lead, dipper, molds and lube minimum equipment needed. Do all casting outside!!!

[Norton1]

I did a little checking on ebay and found a lot of equipement for not a lot of money. And the castBoolits site is awesome -

If anyone is going to be doing some casting I'd love to sit in and watch - if you don't mind that is -

Much obliged to all and the links were great -

[ballardw]

I did a little checking on ebay and found a lot of equipement for not a lot of money. And the castBoolits site is awesome -

If anyone is going to be doing some casting I'd love to sit in and watch - if you don't mind that is -

Much obliged to all and the links were great -

Watch nothing, I'd put you to work...

I have a couple of new molds I need to try plus some scrap lead to make into ingots. Maybe it's time to get started on those some morning before the temps get hot.

[Norton1]

Work I can do - a buddy of mine did some scrounging and came up with a pot, dipper, a couple of molds for 38, and a few more ideas as to what I can do with this - nice to have buddies -

I think the sizing/lubing component is all I am missing now. Can't I get those for a single stage press and do them that way?

Give me some lead time ballard and I'll cruise over and help you out - 

[ballardw]

Work I can do - a buddy of mine did some scrounging and came up with a pot, dipper, a couple of molds for 38, and a few more ideas as to what I can do with this - nice to have buddies -

I think the sizing/lubing component is all I am missing now. Can't I get those for a single stage press and do them that way?

Give me some lead time ballard and I'll cruise over and help you out - 

Lee makes a kit that uses a single stage press for bullets that are 'tumble' lubed (or sprayed or dipped). The bullets have several grooves that are very shallow instead of the more traditional one or two deeper and wider grooves on most other bullet maker molds. One very nice thing about the kit is the packaging is actually part of the kit. Its basically a plastic bottle with a screw on lid and an opening that goes over the sizing die. You push the bullet up through the die to size and the bullet stays in the bottle. It looks like you'd probably need to empty the bottle every 50 to 100 bullets.

You can see a picture of this set up and price at http://www.factorysales.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1248328615.1493=/html/catalog/lubesize.html

[Norton1]

That's pretty cool - I reckon I need to slug the barrel to figure out the size I need - I'll get that done over the next few days and order it - $16 is plenty cheap.

[High Wall]

That's pretty cool - I reckon I need to slug the barrel to figure out the size I need - I'll get that done over the next few days and order it - $16 is plenty cheap.

I mentioned in my post that I use the Lee sizing system.  The system works well, and I like it for especially for the longer rifle bullets, but I didn't mention that the inside of the Lee dies are typically rough as a cob.  What I do once I've decided on a diameter is order one a thousandth smaller than I want, then polish it out to where I want it.  What firearm are you going to be casting for?

[Norton1]

I'm going to start with my 38 +p. Eventually, if it works OK, I'll start on my 9mm and 45. From there my 30-30 and 22 K-Hornet.

I figure the 38 will be a great spot to begin.

Rougher than a cob eh? Drats - but I imagine I should be able to chuck it up in my lathe and polish it up pretty well - -

[High Wall]

I'm going to start with my 38 +p. Eventually, if it works OK, I'll start on my 9mm and 45. From there my 30-30 and 22 K-Hornet.

I figure the 38 will be a great spot to begin.

Rougher than a cob eh? Drats - but I imagine I should be able to chuck it up in my lathe and polish it up pretty well - -

Yup, that's what I do.  Just takes a few minutes with a lathe.  I just slot a mandrel and use emery cloth, then finish up with crocus cloth.  Before I had the lathe, I did it the same way with a mandrel chucked in a drill.

You mentioned slugging your barrel to determine sizing diameter.  For a revolver, it is best to size to the diameter of the cylinder throats.  The bullet will obturate to this diameter anyway, so the less the bullet is distorted on firing, the better.  It also helps prevent leading of the cylinder throats by discouraging blow-by around the base of the bullet.  A good revolver will have consistent cylinder throat size between chambers, and the throats will be no more than a thou or two over barrel groove diameter.

An easy way to get throat diameters is to use bullets of known diameters as plug gages.  But really for any quality revolver, sizing to .358" gets it 95% of the time.  And you are right, the .38 is a great caliber to begin with. 

[Norton1]

Looking at the Lee setup the largest they offer is .358. And reading some of the comments on lubing the Lee liquid Alox is messy? So is it easier to use beeswax and dip them in a pan and then size?

Using bullets I already have for sizing will be quite easy. I have some 44 lead balls but nothing in the 38 size. I'll get this done over the next day or so. And cylinder sizing makes a lot of sense.

Actually just using a micrometer to measure would be the easiest -

[Nomad]

 Lyman has a good setup pot, heater and molds not very costly.
 Cast about 100 bullets an hour on a single bullet mold for the muzzle loader....

[High Wall]

Looking at the Lee setup the largest they offer is .358. And reading some of the comments on lubing the Lee liquid Alox is messy? So is it easier to use beeswax and dip them in a pan and then size?

Using bullets I already have for sizing will be quite easy. I have some 44 lead balls but nothing in the 38 size. I'll get this done over the next day or so. And cylinder sizing makes a lot of sense.

Actually just using a micrometer to measure would be the easiest -

The liquid alox works well as a lube.  I use it on cast bullets cast from wheel weights in .308 and 30-06 in loads that are 1800+ with no leading.  But you are right, it can be messy.  The lube covers the entire bullet.  You put the bullets in a container (I use a cottage cheese carton), squirt the lube in, put the lid on and turn them over and over until the bullets are coated.  Then I spread them out on a cookie sheet covered with waxed paper to dry for a day or so.  Even after drying, the lube is a little tacky, so dirt will stick to the bullets in loaded rounds if you don't protect them.  Just keep them in the ammo box until ready to shoot them.  As I mentioned before, this is the method I use for rifle bullets.

For pistol bullets, I use an old Lyman lube/sizer.  But you can still use the Lee sizing setup and just put lube in the lube grooves and not over the whole bullet.  You get a shallow tray and set the bullets in it base down.  You melt conventional bullet lube (such as 50/50 beeswax/Alox) and pour around the bullets until the level rises to the top of whatever grooves you want to lube.  Wait for the lube to cool and solidify.  You can put the tray in the fridge to speed things up.  Then you take what Lyman calls a 'KakeKutter" and slide it over the bullet. Lee makes a similar tool.  You can also make one out of a fired case with the base cut off.  The ID of the kakekutter is close to bullet diameter, so it cuts the bullet out of the lube.  You then run the lubed bullet up though the Lee sizer and you are done.  This method produces bullets that will have no exposed lube when loaded into a cartridge.

This method is actually pretty fast once you get the system down, but you'll probably want to get a lube/sizer eventually.

You can use a caliper to measure cylinder throats, but it is difficult to get an accurate measurement because the hole is round and the blades on the caliper are flat.  That's why I suggested using bullets of known diameter as plug gages.  Say if a bullet measuring .357" is a nice slip fit, you got it.  If it is a little loose, then .358 might be a better fit.

[Norton1]

My buddy came by today - melting pot (cast one), dipper/pourer, and a Lee 158 grn SWC double cavity mold with handles. Swaped him some old Luger ammo (and oddball brass) and a couple of 1950's car magazines for the stuff.

Not a bad swap I'm thinking. The blocks are .357, same size as my cylinders, and meant to be shot as cast so no need for a sizer yet. Lube is going to be a melt in a pan and dip and stack till dry and then load them up. For now it's not anything but Minute of Man at 0-15 feet.

I'm going to stop by Les Shwab tomorrow and pick up some wheel weights to cast as bullets. They ought to work as good as anything for what I'm doing. Mainly learning to cast and shooting for fun!

Tell me about using flux - how much and when and what it does - I know in solder it cleans and allows the solder to flow better. Is there a local place to buy the flux? Like here in Nampa?

[High Wall]

My buddy came by today - melting pot (cast one), dipper/pourer, and a Lee 158 grn SWC double cavity mold with handles. Swaped him some old Luger ammo (and oddball brass) and a couple of 1950's car magazines for the stuff.

Not a bad swap I'm thinking. The blocks are .357, same size as my cylinders, and meant to be shot as cast so no need for a sizer yet. Lube is going to be a melt in a pan and dip and stack till dry and then load them up. For now it's not anything but Minute of Man at 0-15 feet.

Nice going on the swap.  You may find the bullets drop from the mold something different than .357".  Different alloys will give different diameters from molds, believe it or not.  But I'll bet you'll be close enough.  And I'll bet your accuracy will be better than that.

I'm going to stop by Les Shwab tomorrow and pick up some wheel weights to cast as bullets. They ought to work as good as anything for what I'm doing. Mainly learning to cast and shooting for fun!

I'll be interested to hear if they let you have any.  Tire shops have been getting stingier about their wheelweights lately.  There is another consideration.  Lead for wheel weights is being phased out in favor of other materials, especially zinc.  This is due to bogus environmental concerns.  Be sure to separate any zinc wheelweights as you don't want them in the pot.  If your mix gets hot enough to melt the zinc, it will ruin your alloy.  It becomes a globbed up mess that won't fill the mold.

Tell me about using flux - how much and when and what it does - I know in solder it cleans and allows the solder to flow better. Is there a local place to buy the flux? Like here in Nampa?

You will want to get some Marvelux from Brownell's.  In the meantime, you can use such things as bullet lube, grease or wax.  It'll be smoky and keep in mind the vapors are flammable.  Some will take advantage of this and light the fumes which reduces the smoke.  You will want to do this in a well ventilated place, anyway.Mix in whatever you using for flux, let it sit for a bit, then skim the crud from the top leaving shiny metal.

Marvelux is nice because it smokes very little unless you use too much, and it doesn't smell particularly bad.

You will read a lot of warnings about how toxic lead is.  No doubt it is, but there are a lot of alarmists out there crying about the hazards of casting bullets.  It just isn't a problem if you use a little care.  Wash your hands thoroughly when done.  And don't lick the bullet molds.

[Norton1]

Wheel weights - HAHAHAHAHAHAHA - they sell it all to a battery manufacturing company for $20 a 2 1/2 gallon bucket. And company policy is no sales to individuals. I should have known. And the companies are going to steel weights to obviate the environmental concerns. Ah well -

Is there a local source for lead of a quality for bullet casting? If not I can buy it on the internet for about $2 a lb. And that is quality casting metal from a bullet company. So not a large there. I'm a cheapo so if I could get it elsewhere for less I'd do it.

Grease - as in axle grease? I was also told that beeswax was a good one to use - if so I might go to a bee outfit and see about buying it there. I don't think it takes a lot but still gotta have it - heard about lighting the smoke to obviate the nasty piece of it -

Very interresting - he said - 

[Bill, Idaho]

Some of the smaller LOCAL tire shops will get rid of their old wheel weights.  Screw the big ones....Schwabb, etc.  I used to get mine from the tire shop in Parma a few years ago.  You just have to poke around and ask.

[High Wall]

Wheel weights - HAHAHAHAHAHAHA - they sell it all to a battery manufacturing company for $20 a 2 1/2 gallon bucket. And company policy is no sales to individuals. I should have known. And the companies are going to steel weights to obviate the environmental concerns. Ah well -

Is there a local source for lead of a quality for bullet casting? If not I can buy it on the internet for about $2 a lb. And that is quality casting metal from a bullet company. So not a large there. I'm a cheapo so if I could get it elsewhere for less I'd do it.

Grease - as in axle grease? I was also told that beeswax was a good one to use - if so I might go to a bee outfit and see about buying it there. I don't think it takes a lot but still gotta have it - heard about lighting the smoke to obviate the nasty piece of it -

Very interresting - he said - 

Yeah, I figured that's what you'd be told on the wheelweights at Schwab's.  Good deals on scrap lead of one kind or another can still be found (as in free), just keep the feelers out.  I let my friends know I'll take all the lead I can get, so if they see some let me know.  I accumulate a lot that way.

Yes, axle grease will work as a flux, as well as oil, vegetable oil, animal fat, candle wax, about anything that is gooey.  By the way, about the easiest and cheapest source of beeswax I know of are wax toilet rings.  They are still only a couple of bucks at Home Depot or Lowe's for a pretty good sized chunk of wax.

[ballardw]

When fluxing you may want something to stir the pot with. A bent steel or iron rod long enough reach the bottom of the pot and leave a good length for a handle. And don't use lots of flux at one time. With beeswax a bit about the size of a pea in the pot, stir and skim. Repeat until the metal is clean.

One of the nice things with lead is the density is so high that other contaminants like dirt or sand and bits of other metals will float to the top.

I recommend working outside on a concrete surface that's level. Be careful where you put the dross (the stuff you skim off).

[Nomad]

 Steve if you need some lead let me know there is some lead that the
Mrs C....would love to get out......

[Norton1]

Toilet rings - what an idea! I may even have one of those in my spare plumbing stuff. Sheesh - gotta think out of the box here. There is a small tire store near me that I'll check with as well as out by Melba. I should have known the big outfits would be uninterested.

Nomad - if I take all the lead Mrs. C wants gone you'd be weightless Bro!! Side4s - I don't know if butt lead is good fror recycling.

I've got a nice area outside of my shop, concrete pad and a nice table to work off of, so it should be good for this. Always fun to start a new adventure. I was talking to a Brother in Arizona and he has a bunch of lead he said I could have. I think I'll just send him $20 and have him put it in a one rate Priority box.

Thanks for all the assists here -

[fj40mojo]

Nomad - if I take all the lead Mrs. C wants gone you'd be weightless Bro!! Side4s - I don't know if butt lead is good fror recycling.

First you got to have a pot big enough to handle it, then their is the screaming and hollering to take into account, and don't forget the extra odors.  Not worth the effort. My $.02.