Topic: Optimum .40S&W reloading setup?

[idcastandblast]

I'm going to start reloading for .40.  I was thinking of just buying a set of Hornady dies for it, but is the Lee Factory Crimp recommended for this cartridge? 

I also wanted to ask you guys about sizing dies.  I will be shooting a Glock, and have heard that the .40 brass has frequent bulge problems.  Is there a special sizing die that you guys use/recommend?  I was pointed to the EGW undersized die for my 9mm setup by this forum, and it works great.

Thanks in advance.

[ekuo]

I load a fair amount of .40SW, and after some trial and error my preferred dies are the EGW U-die for the resizing die, Hornady seating die because it has this floating sleeve that helps center the bullet, and a LFCD for crimping. 

I switched to the EGW U-die when I started having problems with some of the range pick-up brass not getting resized properly with the regular Hornady resizing die.  FYI, you might want to use a little bit of case lube if you're going to use the U-die on a progressive. 

The problem with bulges on .40 brass is not the fault of the caliber, but I think it is caused by some makes of guns who's chamber doesn't fully support the entire case.  Oddly enough the regular Hornady seating die works just fine for me with 9mm...   

Good luck! 

[birddog1989]

You will see the biggest benefit from the Lee Factory Crimp Die If you are loading bulk cast bullets.  The reason it has a carbide sizing ring in it, is to squeeze down cases that get bulges up top due to oversized bullets.  I wish I would have bought one 20 years ago.  If you are just shooting jacketed bullets I wouldn't worry about it.

[luvmy45]

I've just used the Dillon dies in my Dillon press and had great results for pistol. I've only loaded a few thou of 40 however and I'm still wringing that one out, but I haven't had any bulged brass yet or issues like that.

I know I like to load the bullet a little on the long side for the 40, as that seems to give me more reliable feeding.

[donm]

I tried loading long and had feeding problems so I went back to the factory 1.125" COL and have no problems. I do long my 9mm long and they feed really nice.

[ekuo]

OP is loading .40SW for a Glock.  That means the max COAL he'll be able to load is something like 1.135-1.140".  

I found out thru trial and error that my STI will feed 1.125" to 1.200" COAL.  For minor loads I use a COAL of 1.135" so I can also use them in my G35, but for Major PF I load 1.180" in an attempt to minimize pressure.  I'm one of those people that l likes a heavy bullet and fast powder, so loading long is prudent for major.  

[RGinIdaho]

I've just used the Dillon dies in my Dillon press and had great results for pistol.

+1
Probably haven't loaded over 20k in 40sw.


FWIW, I've shot all but about 100rounds of the 20k. 

[idcastandblast]

Thanks for all of the input.  It is pretty cool to be able to ask a panel of experts and get thorough responses.  EGW and Hornady dies on order!

[ekuo]

The EGW U-die is basically a Lee sizing die made to EGW's specifications to slightly undersize the case by a thousandth or so.  I think it also allows you to insert the case higher into the die than the standard one, but don't quote me on that. 

Good luck and have fun! 

One more thing (and RG is more an expert on this than I am):  .40SW is a round that can quickly generate some pretty high pressures, more so than a .45acp.  So refer to loading manuals and work your loads up carefully, especially as you approach the recommended maximums.  Also be careful of bullet set-backs (in which the pressure can jump up quick significantly).  IMO, .40SW is perfectly safe, but there are a few things to be mindful of. 

[Joey]

Try a Dillon Square Deal B, just leave it set up. Works pretty awesome, and pretty fast.
Cheap enough, just buy one for each caliber. I have a 3 hole pattern on my bench.
When I load 40 or 45, I just grab that press, bolt it down, check the first 25, n GO.
If there were no adjustments needed, then I check 1 out of every 100.
Titegroup powder meters pretty good, and I rarely have to make adjustments.

Simple, Fast, and Accurate, doesn't get any easier than that 

[ekuo]

Try a Dillon Square Deal B, just leave it set up.

FYI on the Dillon SDB:  they require proprietary dies, so you won't be able to use the U-die or Hornady. 

[RGinIdaho]

I have an Dillon SDB in 45acp. I got a great deal on it and it was in 45acp otherwiser I would not have purchased it for the reason Evans mentioned. Having used it as a dedicated press for 45acp with one type bullet for many years, I still wouldn't recomend it as a primary press due to the smaller press opening.

Evans, EXPERT,  

I'm not an expert by any means but I do pay attention to the mistakes of others. I also read instructions, take good notes and heed warnings!
40sw is very safe to load. People can get into trouble loading major power factor loads with heavy bullets and overly fast for the caliber powders. Most of the reloading related 40 kabooms you will read about involve heavy bullets and powders faster than n320/AA2 used to push them to make major in guns with poorly supported chambers. Stick with minor loads for the clays, titegroup class of powder and you should be fine. When you go to load major with 170's and 180's go with a little slower powder and you will eliminate a known risk. As always consult your manual, work up loads with a chrono if at all possible and pay attention to what the chrono and cases are telling you.

Most of the feeding trouble that I have seen with loading for auto pistols can be traced to little or inaccurate crimp and OAL issues.

Generally speaking Load longer for 1911 style 40s and shorter for the plastic fantastics.

With 40sw taper crimp to .420" at the edge of the case mouth and you should be good to go.

Remember to seat and crimp in seperate steps.

Evans mentioned set back. To minimize the risk of setback, size an empty case of your chosen brand(s), run the case into the expander plug, seat a bullet but don't crimp, now push the bullet against the bench with a good deal of your weight, the bullet should not move deeper. If it does, chuck the expander in your drill and polish it down with steel wool until you get the tension you are looking for. You can contact the manufacturer and see if they will send you a smaller plug but it's not too tough to take one down a thousandth or so at a time by polishing. Now set your taper crimp. Don't over crimp as this can bulge the case and destroy neck tension.
 

[ekuo]

I have an Dillon SDB in 45acp. I got a great deal on it and it was in 45acp otherwiser I would not have purchased it for the reason Evans mentioned. Having used it as a dedicated press for 45acp with one type bullet for many years, I still wouldn't recomend it as a primary press due to the smaller press opening.

Evans, EXPERT,   

I'm not an expert by any means but I do pay attention to the mistakes of others. I also read instructions, take good notes and heed warnings!
40sw is very safe to load. People can get into trouble loading major power factor loads with heavy bullets and overly fast for the caliber powders. Most of the reloading related 40 kabooms you will read about involve heavy bullets and powders faster than AA5 used to push them to make major in guns with poorly supported chambers. Stick with minor loads for the clays, titegroup class of powder and you should be fine. When you go to load major with 170's and 180's go with a little slower powder and you will eliminate a known risk. As always consult your manual, work up loads with a chrono if at all possible and pay attention to what the chrono and cases are telling you.

Most of the feeding trouble that I have seen with loading for auto pistols can be traced to little or inaccurate crimp and OAL issues.

Generally speaking Load longer for 1911 style 40s and shorter for the plastic fantastics.

With 40sw taper crimp to .420" at the edge of the case mouth and you should be good to go.

Remember to seat and crimp in seperate steps.

Evans mentioned set back. To minimize the risk of setback, size an empty case of your chosen brand(s), run the case into the expander plug, seat a bullet but don't crimp, now push the bullet against the bench with a good deal of your weight, the bullet should not move deeper. If it does, chuck the expander in your drill and polish it down with steel wool until you get the tension you are looking for. You can contact the manufacturer and see if they will send you a smaller plug but it's not too tough to take one down a thousandth or so at a time by polishing. Now set your taper crimp. Don't over crimp as this can bulge the case and destroy neck tension.
 

Like I said:  Expert.  Read and heed!

[idcastandblast]

Wow, what have I gotten myself into?!?! Part of the reason that I bought the .40 was to be scored major in USPSA. 

But, I will follow the great advice and load minor with light bullets for awhile.  All I have right now is Titegroup, so will have to get something different for that next step.

What primers do you guys use?  I did some reading today, and it sounds like some people will use small rifle primers??  I was just going to use the same small pistol that I have for 9mm.

[RGinIdaho]

Wow, what have I gotten myself into?!?! Part of the reason that I bought the .40 was to be scored major in USPSA. 

But, I will follow the great advice and load minor with light bullets for awhile.  All I have right now is Titegroup, so will have to get something different for that next step.

What primers do you guys use?  I did some reading today, and it sounds like some people will use small rifle primers??  I was just going to use the same small pistol that I have for 9mm.

For major, experiment with a pound of WSF with the heavies, I think you will be happy.

I use small pistol. I've used small rifle. Most use small rifle to avoid stocking 2 types of primers. To use the rifle follow a standard load work up and you'll be fine. The cups can be harder in small rifle so some triggers/striker spring don't like them.

[Jaggy13]

I was using small rifle primers most of the summer.
The only issue that I recently learned about is erosion on the breach face.
Just keep an eye on the hole the firing pin protrudes from. If you start seeing erosion, move to a softer primer cup.

Some of the "Glock" guys like Federal primers just because they are the softest and therefor can produce the lightest trigger job.

I've been using CCI for a while, and since RG is the one who told me where and when to get them, I assume he would sign off on them as well.

I suppose it all depends on your point of view but I would consider RG an Expert in many areas... Certainly knows more than I. He's full of good information... among other things

[donm]

I have always used Federal 100 small pistol primers and like them very much. I currently use Unique powder but when that is gone I will be using Universal. I tried WSF and Power Pistol and They didn't group as well as the two previos powders. That is my gun and choice of bullets though and it could be different for yours. try several powders and shoot some groups. You should get access to a cronograph as well and set your loads up real close the the 165 power factor. Other than that there is some real good info in this thread. Good luck.

[Nealio]

Powders:
I personally don't like to run powders where you have a very light charge (such as Clays or Titegroup).  To me there is too much risk of a kaboom.  I shoot for powders that take up 40-80% of the case volume.  That way a double charge can be easily detected and/or completely avoided and small variances in your charge from throw to throw will have less effect on your velocity.
I'm probably the only person around these parts that runs Power Pistol, and I run it for all my stuff.  I don't need to remember which powder is in my dump, or remember which powder I'm using at the time for what caliber.  It also makes it easy to switch calibers, as emptying out the dump and cleaning it seems to be the most time consuming part for me.
I know a few guys on here follow that same logic, but with a different powder.

[dvc]

I'm running Power Pistol in my .40 S&W.  Nealio talked me into it during a group buy.   It does have good fill volume and decent consistency.   Use caution though if you leave it in your powder measure.  While doing load development I left it in my RCBS Chargemaster for a couple of weeks.  The powder reacted with the plastic, lightly 'melting' it.   The powder granules scraped off easily, but the surface is no longer nice and smooth.

I have been happy using Dillon dies and have had no problem with them.

I use small pistol primers with no problems either.  My load runs 180 PF (old habits dies hard ).

dvc

[Nealio]

 Use caution though if you leave it in your powder measure.  While doing load development I left it in my RCBS Chargemaster for a couple of weeks.  The powder reacted with the plastic, lightly 'melting' it.   The powder granules scraped off easily, but the surface is no longer nice and smooth.

Whoa, that is weird.  My Dillon powder dump has spent the last year and a half filled with the stuff.  I never empty it.

[dvc]

My guess is the RCBS plastic formula is sensitive to Power Pistol.  May be the double base vs single base powder issue.  Don't know.   I have left many different powders in my dillon measures and even my 30 year old RCBS manual measure with no problems.   Fortunately I only use the Chargemaster when I am working up loads.  Other wise it is the tried and true Dillon.

Keeping more on topic...  I use Winchester WSP primers and run the extreme 180 plated bullets.   

dvc

[RGinIdaho]

I believe a little reading in any load manual will enlighten you in regard to leaving powder in a powder measure when not actually involved in the loading process. It is generally listed as a safety issue in regard to powder handling. Fill it when you start, empty it when you're done, they say this helps reduce the incidence of kaboom.

I personally know of one rifle kaboom in the Payette area caused by this very habit. He still shoots but gave up reloading entirely. I don't really know if it was the bloody gash or the loss of conciousness that scared him off.

[dvc]

A little reading in any load manual, and most articles about loading, will provide the aforementioned enlightenment.   Years ago I took the enlightenment under advisement and created appropriate procedures for use in my facility.  My procedures don't match the enlightenment during carefully controlled special projects.  Other wise, I am enlightened!!!

I know a local shooter who grenaded his AR-15 at the Nampa range.  He found out later that he had used his 9x21 powder in his AR loads.  I was there that day and saw the aftermath.  He researched the cause, and changed his reloading to prevent a repeat.   Powder mismanagement is a real threat and I thank you for bringing it to our attention in this thread.

dvc

[J Mack]

I will tear the top from the primer card and write what powder I’m using on it then affix it to my Dillon powder funnel with elastic hairbands.
I may load the same round over a period of several days so I use this system to help me remember the powder is in the funnel as well the primers in the tube.
  

  

[motosapiens]

Powders:
I personally don't like to run powders where you have a very light charge (such as Clays or Titegroup).  To me there is too much risk of a kaboom.  I shoot for powders that take up 40-80% of the case volume.  That way a double charge can be easily detected and/or completely avoided and small variances in your charge from throw to throw will have less effect on your velocity.
I'm probably the only person around these parts that runs Power Pistol, and I run it for all my stuff.  I don't need to remember which powder is in my dump, or remember which powder I'm using at the time for what caliber.  It also makes it easy to switch calibers, as emptying out the dump and cleaning it seems to be the most time consuming part for me.
I know a few guys on here follow that same logic, but with a different powder.

3.5 gr of clays takes up half a .40 case. Its the exact same volume as 4.2 of n320.

I started with power pistol because i was paranoid about blowing myself up. The recoil (for similar velocity) feels substantially higher to me with power pistol, so now that I'm no longer paranoid, I only use it to train for self-defense, and stick with n320 or clays for competition (wst should be similar as well).