Topic: Chrono Question

[Grumblecakes]

not to disagree about laplua brass far from it, but nosler brass is pretty good stuff in my experience. if cost doesn't matter i would go with laplua, if you get a good price on nosler i would go with it.

with trickling your charges - i have noticed that a charges it basically comes down to precision and significant figures.

example:

your scale read 1/10s of a gr.

lets pretend another scale is more accurate as well it can read out to 1/100s

so you drop a charge it reads 45.5, the other scale reads 45.59.

its almost a gr of difference... its an example so pretend a little.  now if you trickle you can cheat a little and stop right when a grain of powder 'trips' the scale to 45.5.

im probably a little confusing but trickling is a way of being more precise.

i dont own a trickler but i made a tiny spatula from a strip of credit card type plastic and use it to scope powder in the pan when im close.

[fastfire]

Fastfire- what do you mean and why is that? I just use the change master and periodically check the throes weights in a manual scale.

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=1&categoryId=9212&categoryString=9315***731***9211***19935***

You use the Charge Master to charge just under the weight you want then use the trickler to get the exact weight ya want.
If you want tighter groups v/s just a round to go bang, everything needs to be consistant.
A Charge Master will get a weight close + or - .

[RGinIdaho]

I'm only getting single digit SD's and .5moa accuracy with my Chargemaster. 


It isn't the scale or the case prep. It's the barrel, bullet, powder, barrel time that gets it done.

Use the ladder method to find a good charge weight tolerant node for you barrel.

If you plan to shoot past 600yds...

SD matters once you stretch the rifle out. 20fps extreme spread is about 8" at 1k with a 175smk in a .308. 20fps SD could be as much as 16" at 1K.   None of that takes into account the group size your rifle and you are capable of shooting.

[adrewiske]

The ladder method I think is were I'm going to start. Cabelas had some Lapua for sale in their online bargain cave too. Thank you for all the responses and getting me headed in the right direction!

[adrewiske]

More chrono questions..I loaded up about 2 dozen rounds using the laddder method starting at the recommended min load and working up in .2gr increments. The problem isn't the rounds or the gun but the chrono. Is there a trick to using it on sunny days. I got up to shot #6 and started getting error feedback when I shot. This pissed me off to no end as i spent a lot of time loading these rounds only to shoot a couple and not get a readout. From what I read in the owners manual the chrono senses a shadow as the bullet passes over the sensors. I was using the white plastic shades as suggested and no matter how I tried to readjust the chrono it still kicked out errors. Is it best to use it early in the a.m. when the sun isn't directly overhead? Or am I making some rookie chrono mistake?

[J Mack]

I noticed my chronograph will error often if I’m not shooting straight through it, before I shoot I will set my scope to the lowest power and scan from side to side to look for the cross bars to confirm the front and back bars are aligned and the spot on my target is directly in the center.

[RGinIdaho]

A long piece of card from gift box with the grey side down and taped over the entire setup may help on bright days.

[adrewiske]

Thanks RG and JMack, I'll try both of those ideas. Sometimes "eyeballing" the whole setup to make sure it's level and in-line with the bench can be the hardest part of the whole set up!

[adrewiske]

I just wanted to post a thanks for all the input on the chrono and ladder method ideas. This past week I managed to find a powder range for my rifle that only varied 2 fps between shots while keeping a 1/2" group at 100yds. Needless to say I think I found the charge wt my gun likes. SO again thank you for all the help!