Lee 1000?

[Jaggy13]

Hey everyone,
I have decided to try some reloading, I set out on a recommendation to pick up a Dillon 550 but a friend of mine gave me a Lee 1000 to start off with.
I know almost nothing about reloading and plan to take it very slow and learn as much as I can over the next few months before starting the process.

My thought is; I should be able to at least get familiar with the process with the lee.
My questions are; Will the dye's work in anything else?
Will it even be worth trying to learn on this equipment?

Thanks in advance.

[popsgunner]

Yes and yes, great for pistol calibers, won't really hold up for rifle stuff, too much plastic. Lee dies are great as well. Read up, have someone show you the basics, go slow, follow the book specs and you'll be  G2G.

[Jaggy13]

Thanks for the reply,
I have 9mm dye, and also want to reload .45.
Just didn't want to spend the $$ to set up .45 if it ment spending $$ in the wrong direction.

Gonna take it nice and slow with the 9mm and re-evaluate at that point.
 

[RevolverLove]

Jaggy Don't feel like the lone ranger. I took the reloading class at Cliff's in May and am now going to give it a go myself. I was willed a Lee 4 Turret press and carbide dies for .38 Special and 9mm. I got the Lee reload book at Cliff's also and have read that. Should have it all ready to go sometime next week. Just need to get some powder, bullets and primers and give it a go!

Should be fun!!

[fj40mojo]

I have showed several here the ropes and am willing to do it again if you can work around my schedule. RGinIdaho and Spiff have put on classes as well. PM me if you are interested.

[tgibson]

In case you decide to upgrade...http://www.boiseshooters.com/index.php/topic,10168.0.html
Adios,
TG

[luvmy45]

My first progressive was a Lee 1000 for my .45... the primer tray always gave me fits, but other than that it was a good press for the price.

Learning how is more imporant than the press... Cliffs is a good place for local help and parts, and there several of us here that are more than willing to help out the reloader... just don't over do the powder and you should be ok... load a few, shoot them, make sure they feed, etc...

Things that you really need to have:

1. Good scale (digital or balance beam doesn't matter)
2. Calipers!

There are a ton of reloading sites, but if you stick with the major powder manufactures to start with, you will be safe and learn the process.

The satisfaction of shooting what you load is great!

[Jaggy13]

Thanks for all the great info!
My motivation is to build consistent ammo. Nothing "hot".
I just want to build loads that I can trust, and can afford to shoot!

I will definitely be taking up the offer for a loading lesson.
Part of the concern I have with the Lee is that its in several pieces in multiple boxes and looks to have been there for a few years.
I have no idea if it's even complete. I've been reading up on the process as much as I can, I think seeing a press in action will help me understand the entire process and see in action what parts do what.

I do have a decent starter kit with no investment, other than a few rounds once I start producing. I have a tumbler the press and dies for a few calibers. I'll probably wait to buy a scale or calipers until I have read a manual and saved up some brass.

I was able to find a couple threads on some other forums addressing the Lee 1000, and do feel more confident that my setup will work for me just fine.

As for the Dillon... I would love to, but for now, I am on a pretty strict budget. Once I have the process down, I could see enjoying the efficiency of a 650.

[luvmy45]

You have some gun shows coming up, good place to look for some used equipment like scales and calipers.

Also, if you live here in Boise, Cliff's has press's setup at his shop and you can go and see, touch, feel them and see what parts or pieces you may be missing. Cabela's also has the Lee 1000 setup, but they dont' have as many parts and pieces as Cliffs does. He's a good resource locally for reloading equipment.

Watch Harbor frieght for their digital calipers to go on sale, you can get them for 14 at times when they have them on sale. They look identical to the 30 Frankford Arsenal ones from Midway and Cabela's.

Good luck!

[carharttfarmer]

if your just startin out with pistol rounds have you decided on a powder? if you havent consider unqie from allint powders you can use it for everthing and its pretty forgiving if you screw up =as in hard to blow a gun up with it even if you dont know what your doing

[Niner]

The Lee carbide dies are great, especially in 9mm as it is a little harder to get the perfect crimp on those.  The Factory Crimp die makes it a breeze.
I have heard the Lee 1000 is a little finicky to get set up right, can't help you there.  I have loaded probably 50K+ on the Classic Turret press which really removes a lot of potential operator error the way it is set up.  Not as fast as the true progessives but I can still get 250-300 per hour out of it if the brass is already cleaned and decapped separately.
I would also recommend that you get the Lyman Pistol reloading manual, as some of the loads in the Lee manual are hotter than what you'll find in other manuals.  The Speer manual also has a special section on reloading 9mm and the idiosyncracies associated with that caliber - you can just check it out at the library and copy that section if you want to save the $25-30 bucks on getting another manual.

[Jaggy13]

if your just startin out with pistol rounds have you decided on a powder? if you havent consider unqie from allint powders you can use it for everthing and its pretty forgiving if you screw up =as in hard to blow a gun up with it even if you dont know what your doing

Thats the info I want right there!
Thanks!

Stopped by Cliff's today.
Really great experience.
Can't believe I have never been in there.
Thanks for the recommendation.

Lyman Pistol reloading manual, already on the shopping list with calipers.

At this point, I am going to at least setup the Lee but am heavily leaning toward a 550b...

My over all investment is still reduced because I have a tumbler and a few other goodies I don't need to buy.

[fj40mojo]

I'm caliper rich, I've got a Stainless Steel RCBS 0-6" Dial that I'd part with for $15 if your interested.

[Grumblecakes]

Ditto on the scale and calipers. I would also reccomend the nosler load data the loads in there have been dead on for me. Those little books at sportsmans with load data are great too for referening loads across diffrent manufacures.

[Jaggy13]

Got the Lee bolted down tonight, and picked up the lyman big book. I think the beginning section will help me understand the science before the application.

$15 calipers sounds great to me!

[RevolverLove]

.....
I would also recommend that you get the Lyman Pistol reloading manual, as some of the loads in the Lee manual are hotter than what you'll find in other manuals.  The Speer manual also has a special section on reloading 9mm and the idiosyncracies associated with that caliber - you can just check it out at the library and copy that section if you want to save the $25-30 bucks on getting another manual.

I'm surprised to hear that. In reading the Lee book section on gunpowder he makes it sound like his data is backed off by 5% or so for safety. I don't get it. If I'm shooting a .38 Spl 125 Grain Jacketed bullet, using Unique powder should not all the grain charges be the same. Why the variance between Nosler, Speer,Lyman and Lee??

[carharttfarmer]

they all do there own testing and it can vary by bullet design=even at the same wieght there can be differnce in the jacket thikness or design
and look at the load data they might be using differnt primers
and or testin it in real guns or test barrels



plus if they were all the same people wouldnt buy more than one manual

[RevolverLove]

I see Thanks. So it's not a life and death matter. Fantastic. I can see that keeping track of primers, powder and bullet is important. Thanks for all the help guys. As soon as I can build my bench and set my stuff up I'll be loading. I plan to do 12 and then head to the range. If all goes well I'll load up several hundred. I'm shooting IDPA now and I need the ammo to practice

[Jaggy13]

I was wondering the same thing...
I have the lee data, a speer book and the Lyman. All seem to be a little different.
Also the Lee data is the only one that converts grain to CC and the powder disc had CC measurements instead of grain...
I haven't really had a chance to search for an easy conversion just an observation.

On Powder, I see to many out there to even know where to start. The reviews I have read about about Unique say its extremely dirty.
Also I see different manufacturers of Unique, is that a type more than a brand?
What happens when I decide on a powder and its not in my load book for a specific round? Are there comparable powders?
Just seems like the more I learn the more questions I have...
Thanks all

[fj40mojo]

I was wondering the same thing...
I have the lee data, a speer book and the Lyman. All seem to be a little different.
Also the Lee data is the only one that converts grain to CC and the powder disc had CC measurements instead of grain...
I haven't really had a chance to search for an easy conversion just an observation.

On Powder, I see to many out there to even know where to start. The reviews I have read about about Unique say its extremely dirty.
Also I see different manufacturers of Unique, is that a type more than a brand?
What happens when I decide on a powder and its not in my load book for a specific round? Are there comparable powders?
Just seems like the more I learn the more questions I have...
Thanks all

The variance in data is due to the fact that some loads are tested in actual firearms while others have been tested in test barrels ie more of a lab type scenario, also variations in bullet construction like jacket thickness materials, and mfg can also effect end pressures. ALWAYS work work up to published max charges, just because the book says it's safe doesn't mean it safe in your gun, it means it was a safe pressure in the publishers testing. Every gun is a little different.

Lee provides conversion to CC (volume) from grains (apothecary weight) because their Lee loader system uses the little scoops rather than a weighed charge. All powders have a different bulk to them. Grain size and shape determine how tightly they randomly fit together in a given space. This can be overcome to some degree by the way they are poured into that space. With a drop tube I have been able to fit 2 grains more of a particular powder into the same case vs. just pouring it in through a powder funnel. Get a beam type scale at minimum and weigh your charges, it is the only way to really know what you are putting in there.

As for powders, I've shot Unique in my .45s exclusively for 20+ years and have never had a problem with fouling a gun. As far as I know Alliant is the only maker of Unique. Some other mfgs may make a similar powder to compete with Alliant but I've never seen another mfg marketing Unique. Load data is not interchangeable. For example, don't use IMR4895 data if you are loading H 4895 or vice versa, they are not the same powder, don't let the numbers confuse you. There are lots of data sources including the internet. Most of the powder mfgs provide some data for their powders free of charge on line.  Use those sources.

Something to consider when choosing any powder or any other component whether it be for pistol of rifle, what are you trying to accomplish by reloading? Some do it to save money and look for the most bang for their buck. Some do it for performance and are looking to ring every drop of accuracy or velocity out of a given gun. Some do it just because they are so immersed in the shooting sports that it is just one more thing they do as part of their lifestyle. Take some time and figure out for yourself why you want to reload. It will have some bearing on the powder and other components you buy.

Lastly, find a mentor to show you the ropes. No one wants you to have a bad experience with a firearm, most of all you.

[popsgunner]

+1 FJ, well said, the other thing we see all the time is that even though it says 44mag on the side of that Taurus, Rossi or other foreign named gun DOESN't mean it will handle the presures of that round on a regular basis, like Smith or Ruger would.
Tone your loads down for these guns and it will last longer and be more accurate.

[carharttfarmer]

On Powder, I see to many out there to even know where to start. The reviews I have read about about Unique say its extremely dirty.
Also I see different manufacturers of Unique, is that a type more than a brand?
What happens when I decide on a powder and its not in my load book for a specific round? Are there comparable powders?
Just seems like the more I learn the more questions I have...
Thanks all

unque isnt as dirty as some people make it out to be also it was reformulated a couple years back to be cleaner burning but it is a good powder for just about anything  you can also go to the powder manufactures websites a get load data for free

[luvmy45]

Dirty is a relative term...

Where you notice it the most is shooting indoors with poor ventilation... and it's not so much dirty as smoky... lead reloads tend to smoke and look dirtier than plated or jacketed reloads.

The end of the gun gets residue on it, after 500 rounds of my reloads it requires a wipe down... but it's not "dirty" per se.

I wouldn't base my powder choice on how dirty it is when starting out... 1) Price 2)Availability, what is around here that is priced right and available... then buy it, and learn how to work a load up, shoot it with different bullets and see what you like... then start changing the powder around to lock in your load.

[Grumblecakes]

i more or less self taught my self to reload. I have made a few mistakes but with vigilance nothing bad happened. i load on a lee hand press and have to do things in discreet steps. i missed a case when charging them and got a round stuck in the barrel. if something doesnt seem right when firing your loads then check your weapon and your cases for any bad signs, a squib could ruin more than your day.

just a little encouragement. i started with 9mm and moved on to 40sw and 223. be warned - reloading is addictive. since January Ive loaded over 2k 223, 3k 9mm and around 500 40sw. it defiantly adds a whole new dimension to the sport.

[RevolverLove]

....

Lee provides conversion to CC (volume) from grains (apothecary weight) because their Lee loader system uses the little scoops rather than a weighed charge. All powders have a different bulk to them. Grain size and shape determine how tightly they randomly fit together in a given space. This can be overcome to some degree by the way they are poured into that space. With a drop tube I have been able to fit 2 grains more of a particular powder into the same case vs. just pouring it in through a powder funnel. Get a beam type scale at minimum and weigh your charges, it is the only way to really know what you are putting in there.



Lastly, find a mentor to show you the ropes. No one wants you to have a bad experience with a firearm, most of all you.

I don't want to sound like a commercial, But, I really like the Lee book. It gives a starting Grains measure followed by the cc Volume then the Auto Disk measure and lastly which Lee dipper to use. Holy Hand Load batman if you screw it up you are just not paying attention. My system has the auto disk measure, the dipper and a scale. I had planned on using the Auto Disk and then check the weight on the scale. Also using only the starting load in the book. Since I'm using a jacketed bullet on both (115 gr 9mm and 125 gr.38, Unique powder can be used for both. Lee gives load data on a zillion powders and I've yet to get into the science of burn rates, pressures and whatever else to determine the differences between them. I can see that I could possibly turn into the target shooter by day and mad scientist re loader at night. My reasons to do this is cost and availability. I don't want to be subjected to this crazy deal of ammo being scarce on minute and then on sale the next. Re loading is mush cheaper if you shoot more. Well, shoot more!!